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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.